Lime Crime, you're doing it wrong.

13th February 2012

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Lime Crime, you're doing it wrong. →

Lime Crime, you’re doing it wrong.

*If you want to read updates on the events that have been happening ever since I wrote this post, please click here for the first update, and here for the most recent update.*

Oh the things I have to say about this advert campaign. Prepare for a long post.

I should preface this by saying that there’s nothing wrong with learning about and enjoying another culture. I’m certainly not saying that other people can’t be inspired by other cultures or in this case, that non-Asians/outsiders can’t enjoy, appreciate, or be a part of an Asian or outside culture. We wouldn’t be aware of other cultures if it weren’t for people outside the culture seeking to study and learn about it and for members of the culture to want to inform others. Cultures are all different and they’re meant to be appreciated for their differences.

I should also add in that this is my viewpoint based off of my experiences living in the United States. What may be offensive to me may not be deemed offensive to you based off of where you live and your cultural experiences. While they may be different, I’d like to think both of us can respect our viewpoints and be a little educated because of it.

This is Lime Crime’s Chinadoll advertising campaign for their newest product, which is a five pan eyeshadow palette. I know nothing about the product itself but I’m extremely displeased at this image, the text and description, and what it represents. I take opposition to the way that Lime Crime has chosen to do this advertisement and how Chinese culture is somehow twisted in their interpretation and how it’s been done in an ethnocentric and orientalist way. I’m not saying that the owner Doe is a racist since some people might interpret what I’m saying that way. I’m saying that the campaign was done in a racially insensitive way and the entire thing is rather ignorant of Chinese culture, past and present.

Image taken from Limecrimemakeup.com

The text that accompanies the image:

“Don’t let her milky skin, pouty mouth and flushed cheeks fool you, underneath the poised facade, there lies a heart of a tigress”

and the text that describes how to create the Chinadoll look

“Chinadoll is fragile and bold, soft-spoken and out-spoken, a free spirit of undeniable presence. I created a romantic duality by casting watercolor gradients against sharper lines — Lotus Noir was applied under lower lashes, blended into Jade-o-Lade, then faded seamlessly into Parasol. Finally, I added soft-red accents to her cheeks, brows and around the temples for an innocent glow evocative of vintage Chinese advertising posters”

Okay, let’s talk a little bit about the inspiration for the look. Based off of the text, the look and image seems to be inspired by vintage Chinese advertising posters. Doing a quick google image search pops up many advertisements from the 1920s and 1930s.

In these advertisements, these women are wearing a traditional Chinese outfit called a cheongsam, qipao, or in English, a mandarin gown. Specifically, the women are wearing a tight fitting version. According to Wikipedia’s page (due to SOPA, please google search cheongsam and view the cache) on the qipao, the tight fitting version that’s most common today was created, popularized, and made fashionable during the 1920s in Shanghai by socialites and upperclass women. The qipao used to be loose fitting but it became outdated due to the popularity of the tighter qipao.

Now in the advertisement, it looks like the model is wearing a Japanese Kimono. First off, Japanese culture and Chinese culture are not interchangeable. Secondly, many of the vintage 1920s and 1930s Chinese advertisements feature the tight qipao in that era, so why wouldn’t you use it? You’re doing it wrong.

The tight qipao is still in use today, so it wouldn’t be difficult to find one to use for the shoot. Further research pops up this Buzznet photo album of the model at the shoot that shows the full outfit which actually looks like a Chinese and Japanese inspired robe as opposed to a kimono. The sleeves are large like a kimono while the collar looks like it has frog button clasps.

It looks lazy to not use a traditional Chinese dress when you’re doing an advertisement inspired by Chinese culture and a Chinese advertisement in an era that had a clearly defined fashion style. Even on the Wikipedia page on the qipao, you can see a picture of a 1930s Shanghai advertisement featuring two women wearing a tight qipao. I know I first thought the Lime Crime model was wearing a Kimono, which makes me wonder about who else did too. The styling of the shoot makes it look like a watered down stereotype of Chinese advertisements and culture, not an homage to them. I don’t have qualms with the paper parasol since that’s prevalent in many Asian cultures.

I do wonder why she chose to not use an Asian model when she’s being inspired by and doing an homage to Chinese advertisements. It’s already bad enough that Asian models aren’t common in the fashion world and popular media and have only started to become more popular in the modeling world to appeal to the up and coming Chinese buying power but that’s a subject for another post.

Oh and now onto the text. The texts accompanying the image and describing the look is offensive but I can just sum it up by saying that the “China Doll” stereotype is freaking old, the orientalism is ridiculous and I’m pretty tired of the idea that Asian culture is “exotic” or “mystical”. It’s ethnocentric, describing the Asian culture as outside the realms of what’s considered normal according to your own culture. For a mainstream campaign, it’s narrow minded and ignorant to continue to perpetuate Asian stereotypes of “meekness, fragility and mystical strength” within the text and description of the look for the campaign. If you’d like to read more, you can look up the “China Doll” stereotype and orientalism on Wikipedia. If you’d like to read up more on Asian stereotypes, positive or negative, please click out this source which nicely encompasses the restrictive Asian stereotypes.

Since some people seem to think other wise, china dolls are not from China specifically. The word “china” in china doll refers to porcelain, which came from China, but not specifically dolls that were made in China. It seems that most china dolls are European in origin.

And can someone tell Doe to stop using the term oriental? That term is outdated, derogatory, and Eurocentric. Please just use the term “Asian”. Many people might not know that it can be seen as derogatory and I hope that by addressing it now you’ll know the impression that it’ll give when you use it in the United States. I live in an area populated by many different Asian communities, Vietnamese, Chinese, Korean, etc and it would be very offensive to use that term here.

To sum it up, I’m extremely displeased at the advertising campaign.

I’ve only just noticed an apology posted (a day after many of us commented expressing our displeasure) on the comment thread. This is what it had to say-

“I’m very sorry to hear that some of you found the Chinadoll concept offensive. Chinadoll is inspired by a time and a place, and is not meant to depict any contemporary or even real person. My Chinadoll is strong but not afraid to cry, rebellious but in control, traditional and untamed all at once. She is a living contradiction and, above all, a *woman* — she can never be, or will be stereotyped. I hope you guys can continue to support our independent brand, we truly do pour our hearts and souls into it. Thanks for your feedback!-Doe”

I’m glad she apologized, but I really don’t know what to make of the rest of her comment. I should note that a few people have had their posts deleted, one of which was of this image on the facebook page wall.

I understand that people can and will say “oh why bother with this, it’s just an advertisement and there are bigger things in the world to care about”. Well, that’s a pretty big red herring. Saying that doesn’t make what I’m saying and my opinion any less legitimate. I feel rather strongly about this and I’m allowed to have these feelings and many others share the same sentiment. We may agree to disagree but I’d like to see more people discussing this.

Can you give me your thoughts on the campaign? Do you think it crosses a line and if not, why?

All opinions are my own and not influenced by anyone.

thebookslut

Lime Crime, you're doing it wrong. →

Lime Crime, you’re doing it wrong.